Classes of Water Damage

At the core of any water damage problem, the goal is always the same, to completely remove all excess water and dry everything up. What is less known is that the process getting there is not always the same. Water damage comes from different sources, there are different types of water, and water affects different materials in different ways. It becomes imperative to know what type of water damage scenario you are working with in order to properly remediate it.

Image of class 3 water damage

Class 3 water damage (from above)

Whenever dealing with water damage cleanup a restoration company needs to start off answering two questions: What is the category of water damage and what is the class? We have already covered the three categories of water damage (see post dated10/03/2011) which we know categorizes the type of water affecting the loss and will now cover the various classes. Class of water damage is determined by the amount of water that has entered the structure as well as the rate of evaporation that is expected from the affected materials as they dry. This determination is an important step for a mitigation company as it establishes the amount of dehumidification and air movement expected as well as the time required to dry the structure.

There are four different classes of water damage:

 

Class 1 Water Damage: Slow Rate of Evaporation

This is a water damage scenario that affects only a small part of a room with low permeance/porosity materials, such as plywood, particle board, or concrete. Carpets and cushions don’t usually play a large part in the clean up process, and a minimum amount of moisture is absorbed by materials, and these materials release that moisture very slowly.

Most Class 1 cases are easily cleaned up in a relatively short amount of time, with a minimum of equipment. Typically excess water may be removed with a wet-dry vacuum unit as well as the use of several fans to aid in air circulation.

Class 2 Water Damage: Fast Rate of Evaporation

This is a type of water loss that may affect a room that is heavy with carpeting or cushions, and water may have wicked up the walls for a level of 24 inches or less. There will be moisture remaining in structural materials such as plywood and concrete.

Due to the depth of the water, a more sophisticated pump may be required. Water should be pumped out at the rate of about a third a day in order to prevent further damage. Fans, blowers, and dehumidifiers will be required to remove residual moisture and bring down humidity levels. Drying time may take a period of two or three days.

Class 3 Water Damage: Fastest Rate of Evaporation

This is a scenario where the water may have come from overhead, with the ceiling, walls, insulation, and carpeting saturated.

The level of damage will be more severe in Class 3 cases, requiring multiple pumps, fans, air movers, and dehumidifiers. Blowers may also be utilized to remove water and excess moisture from within walls or attic situations. Such a level of structural damage may also require a considerable amount of restoration and reconstruction, as ceilings may sag or collapse and floors damaged by water may warp or crack. The estimated repair time may be several days or even weeks, depending on the depth and severity of the problem.

Class 4 Water Damage: Specialty Drying Situations

Class 4 losses involve wet materials with extremely low porosity such as hardwood, subfloors, plaster, or stone. These tend to be identified by deep pockets of saturation in the affected materials that require very low levels of humidity in order to draw out the water, so extra dehumidification is required.

Regardless of the class of water damage it is important first and foremost to locate the source of the water and shut it off. This not only prevents more water from coming in and making a bad situation worse, but also allows you to determine what type of water you are dealing with (category and class). So turn off the water at the source (if possible and safe to do so) and then call for professional help.

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Managing humidity, airflow and temperature

Water damage in your home or business is bad enough, due to the sheer level of damage that can be inflicted. Even as little as an inch of water can cause hundreds or even thousands of dollars in damage. It is always imperative to begin the water damage restoration process as quickly as possible following any water damage or flood event.

Humidity around window frame image

Excess humidity condenses into water droplets

Unfortunately, there is also a secondary problem that goes hand in hand with water damage, namely the problems that can arise as the result of higher levels of humidity. The most prominent problem of course, is mold damage, which can appear in as little as 48-72 hours, pose serious health hazards, and may be next to impossible to remediate. It’s important to understand that it’s the air being circulated through the structure that will dry out the home, and the thirstier the air is, the quicker the structure will dry. The warmer the air and less humid, the more thirsty it will be and the more efficiently the structure will dry.

It is a known fact that there is often a quick spike in relative humidity (RH) levels in a structure when air movement (through fans) is turned on. And it’s imperative to get this spike in humidity under control by means of either exchanging the air inside the building with the outside air or increasing the dehumidification equipment. Most times a restoration company knows this and will install dehumidifiers while other control processes are being conducted like water extraction long before the rest of the equipment in order to get a handle on the spike in RH

There are several long term effects of higher humidity levels within the home. Condensation may form on windows or water pipes, and sometimes even on the walls (which may cause paint to blister or wallpaper to peel). If condensation forms inside electrical items, it may cause irreparable damage and even be dangerous if the unit is activated. Metal may begin to rust and wood will rot and warp; this may cause doors and draws to stick. Wood cabinets and other wood pieces can swell and become distorted, and some won’t return back to their normal shape even when the humidity levels return to a normal level.

So how does one combat excess humidity in the home?  The single most effective solution is proper air circulation, getting as much air as possible moving throughout the structure in order to swap bad air (humid air) with good air (warm, dry air). Opening all windows and doors will go a long way in this process. You can also utilize dehumidifiers, high velocity fans, blowers, and other air movers to speed the process along. The more units you have, the better off you are. Just remember to move them around every few hours to ensure complete drying coverage. It may require a couple of days to completely dry everything out.

Excess humidity resulting in mold image

mold in the wall from excess humidity

It is also important to maintain proper temperature in the wake of water damage and subsequent repair efforts in order for dehumidifiers to work effectively. Dehumidifiers have an optimal temperature range in order to pull the most moisture from the air, and most of them are between about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If the problem occurs during cold weather, turn the heat on to aid in drying. If the outside temperature is cool, then turn on the heat. Basically, do the opposite of what Mother Nature is giving you.

To remove excess humidity and keep humidity levels within normal parameters, you should make use of a dehumidifier, positioning it and running it in the affected area until the humidity levels are back to normal. In most areas of the country, “normal” means a humidity level of less than 40%.

Lower standard dehumidifier units can be purchased at your local Lowes or Home Depot, with excellent, efficient models available for rent from places likeSunbeltrentals. The larger more efficient models are the ones most good water damage mitigation companies use. The more pints of water that can be extracted from the air, the better. These units do require periodic maintenance, and it is always advised to buy one with a warranty from a company that will stand behind that warranty.

In situations not involving water damage, humidity in the home can be kept down by simply keeping excess water away from the structure. Make sure that roofs are properly sealed, with no leaks into the attic. Basements and crawlspaces should be similarly sealed, and also inspected on a regular basis for potential problems, such as small leaks or condensation. Make sure the ducting is connected to the clothes dryer correctly and is carrying the moist hot air and exhausting it outside. If you have an exhaust fan in your bath room then make sure you use it every time you shower or bath – let it run for at least 30 minutes after showering. If you don’t have an exhaust fan in your bathroom then leave the window open instead. You should also make sure that your air conditioning is properly sized for the home. More is not always better. Incorrectly sized equipment can result in increased operational costs. Make sure your system is appropriate for your home and properly maintained at all times.

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Water damage drying systems

Whenever a homeowner or business owner discovers water damage (regardless of the cause or source), the main basic goal is to get the excess water out of the damaged area, dry everything out, and return humidity levels to normal parameters. Doing this right the first time will prevent a whole host of future problems such as mold. Not doing it right means additional headaches not to mention repair and restoration bills. 

Heating up air outside to dry a building

Air outside gets heated up and then ducted indoors to dry the structure

The water damage drying process may be accomplished in a number of ways. The Open Drying method involves getting air circulating by opening windows and doors and allowing fresh air into the structure to facilitate drying. This is the most basic of drying methods, and very effective if the weather is fairly warm and dry outside. It also requires the least amount of effort on the part of the property owner as it does away with some or all dehumidifiers since the dry air outside is drying the structure. Air movers or fans will still be required to circulate the air around the water damaged structure. If you live in a cold climate the air could be brought inside and then heated up before circulating it around the building. By nature, cold air is naturally dry since the air cannot hold a lot of water, but heating it is a must in order for it to be able to hold more moisture and prevent condensation. With this method, the indoor air needs to be continually exchanged with the outdoor air to prevent the indoor air from getting too humid which would slow down further drying and could cause secondary damage too. 

Build containment for a closed drying system

Closed drying systems don't use outside air to dry a building or room

Sometimes the specific humidity outdoors is considerably higher than the specific humidity indoors which would make an open drying system unfeasible as you would be fighting the outdoor humidity while trying to dry the indoor air. Other factors that could prevent an open drying system would be security, bad weather or air pollution. The Closed Drying method is a bit more involved, making use of a number of high velocity fans, air movers, and other devices to circulate air, moving it across the surface and accelerating evaporation. The more units that can be utilized the better. This is a bit more “hands on” as it requires the units be moved around every few hours in order to ensure complete and thorough drying coverage. Dehumidifiers may also be required to bring down the level of relative humidity to 50% or less. This method is extremely effective; however it does require much more active participation by the property owner. 

It is advised to make use of one air moving device per each 10 to 16 linear feet of wall or flooring, making sure the outlet of each air mover points in the same direction. Smaller rooms such as closets or bathrooms may require a unit of their own. 

This process of drying through air movement usually tends to aerosolize soils and contaminants. Air filtration devices or scrubbers may be needed to provide additional airflow while removing these soils and contaminants from the room. The Closed Drying method is usually the most closely monitored, keeping track of temp and humidity readings, as well as checking the moisture content of structural wood and other materials with a moisture meter. Monitoring also includes checking on equipment operation, progress of the drying process, and overall indoor environmental quality. Section 12.1.25 of the IICRC S500 Standard states that “If moisture measurements do not confirm satisfactory drying, restorers should adjust drying procedures and equipment placement, or possibly add or change equipment to increase drying capability.” 

It is possible to combine the benefits of both the open drying system and closed drying system in one system – this is called the combination drying system. The combination system is exactly what it sounds like, making use of both natural and artificial elements such as dehumidifiers to enhance the drying process, and in many cases it can provide the fastest results. Most water damage restoration companies employ this method and open and close the doors and windows as and when appropriate. It’s not uncommon to arrive at the home to take moisture readings and find the humidity outside is much lower then inside, so the building gets “burped” by opening all the doors and windows and exchanging all the air in the building. Once this is done then the doors and windows get closed again and the already installed dehumidifiers and air movers take over again. Remember, time is of the essence when it comes to water damage; there is only about a 48-72 hour window before long term damage is done, like mold growth, and the clock is ticking.  

Of course circumstances may vary widely when it comes to water damage scenarios. The IICRC provides additional information on a number of related subjects involving various classes and categorizations of water.

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Flood Damage Repairs

Floods are the single most common natural disaster in theUnited States, occurring year round, in all fifty states, causing billions of dollars every year in life and property flood damage. They may develop slowly over a period of days, or they may occur in the form of raging flash floods that spring up in a matter of hours or minutes and rage across the countryside, with little or no warning to individuals in their path. 

Flood damage requires a plan

Be prepared for flood damage

The power of water has to be seen to be believed. It only takes about six inches of flowing water to knock a grown man off his feet, and only about two feet of water to float a car or small SUV.  Flood waters can also literally shift a home or business on its foundations (at best) or it may even wipe them completely away (at worst). 

If your home is the potential target of flood damage, it is always advisable to evacuate, removing yourself from the path of the flood. You can protect items in your home in most cases by moving them to higher elevations or upper floors. Before leaving your home, shut off all utilities at their source. Water and electricity do not mix, and a spark may ignite any leaking gas. It is always preferable to avoid problems before they can occur. 

Have a plan for evacuation, preferably one that leads to higher ground. If a flash flood warning is issued, drop everything and leave immediately. You may only have a matter of minutes. 

Once the flood waters have receded, do not return to your home until the all clear has been given by local emergency management. And even then, remember about flood waters shifting homes on their foundations….you want to take the time to inspect your home for structural integrity before entering. The last thing you need is your home coming down around you. 

The level of damage left behind will most likely be overwhelming and traumatizing, with not only flood water damage, but also a considerable amount of mud, silt, and debris left behind. You should keep an eye out for any animals, especially snakes, that may have taken refuge in your home. 

Of course it is important to begin the flood damage restoration process right away in order to prevent any further damage. Open all windows and doors to get air circulating, remove as many loose items as possible, and take appropriate measures to remove the excess water. 

Flood damage restoration is, in most cases, far too difficult for the average homeowner to undertake, no matter how handy they may think themselves to be. The only way to make sure that your property is properly treated and restored is to hire a flood damage professional, one that is certified by an industry leader such as the IICRC or RIA. 

Professional flood damage restoration companies have the personnel, training, experience, and equipment to handle even the largest cases of water damage, and in most cases can handle other related issues such as mold remediation, carpet drying and cleaning, and structural repair and restoration. 

Don’t entrust your home to just anybody; call your local flood damage professionals today. If you need further advice visit the FEMA website.

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Basics of mold 101

Off all the problems that are caused by water damage, the growth of mold is easily the most common, the most nefarious, and the most harmful.  Mold appears in our homes quite often, and is usually harmless, often presenting itself as a discoloration around showers, tubs, or sinks, and can usually be removed with an off the shelf bleach cleaner.  Mold growth as the result of serious water damage, however, can be a serious matter. 

Mold growth closeup

Mold growth closeup

There are countless identified species of molds and similarly to fungi, molds obtain nutrients not by way of photosynthesis but from the organic material in which they live. Generally, molds exude digestive enzymes which break down complex foods like starch, cellulose and lignin down into simpler elements that can be absorbed by the mold. By doing this, molds play an essential part in causing decomposition of organic material, allowing the recycling of nutrients. Many molds also exude mycotoxins which, along with enzymes, hinder the development of rivaling molds. It’s these micotoxins in certain species that can cause issues in human respiratory and immune systems.

Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores. Mold spores may remain airborne indefinitely, may adhere to clothing or fur, or could possibly make it through extremes of temperature and pressure. Although molds grow on dead organic matter in nature, their existence is only noticeable to the human eye when mold colonies develop. A mold colony is made up of an interconnected community of hyphae. In man-made environments like buildings, dampness and temperature will often be steady enough to promote the development of mold colonies, generally seen as a downy or furry layer growing on food or other materials. 

Mold growth occurs all the time in nature, acting as a natural recycling agent and breaking down the dead tissue of animals and plants.   It reproduces by way of microscopic spores which float through the air and look for a nice moist area to take root and grow.   We interact with mold and even inhale mold spores every day with no ill effects.  The problem comes when we encounter mold spores in high concentrations, which usually occurs when mold is present in an enclosed space, such as a basement or crawlspace. 

Image of mold growth around window[/caption]

Mold generally appears within 48-72 hours following a water damage event (sooner if the water is sewage based).  It establishes itself, spreads like a bad rash, and can prove almost impossible to successfully remediate.  If it were only a nuisance because of the growth, that would be bad enough; mold appears as a fuzzy greenish black growth, accompanied by a rather unpleasant smell.  Unfortunately, mold also brings with it all kinds of health threats.  Inhalation of mold spores in large amounts may result in allergic reactions such as sneezing, runny nose, itchy eyes, and skin irritation. In some rare cases, mold may also cause neurological disorders, respiratory difficulty, and lung disease.  Children raised in homes where mold was present demonstrated higher than normal occurrences of asthma and other breathing problems.  

Some folks pay a lot of money to have their homes inspected for mold.  This isn’t really necessary as mold is usually visually apparent.  Coupled with the aforementioned accompanying odor, if you think your home has mold, chances are it probably does.  

Smaller mold growths can usually be knocked down fairly easily, but larger growths should be handled by a professional.  Always exercise extreme care when working around mold, and wear protective clothing such as long pants, sleeves, and eyewear.  Gloves are also advised as touching mold can be enough to release mold spores into the air.  Protect yourself from inhaling them by wearing a protective mask or better yet a respirator. 

Large mold growths should be handled by a professional mold remediation technician, someone trained to not only remove the mold, but also properly treat the area to prevent it from returning.  Your local IICRC certified professional can take care of even the largest mold problems.  

Never underestimate the power of mold.  Homes, businesses, even entire city blocks have been condemned and torn down because of out of control mold growth.  Don’t take chances with your home or your health, call a certified mold remediation professional today.

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